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March 10, 2013

Fäviken Magasinet - Into the Wild

"This remarkable restaurant thrives off its own isolation, serving food according to the seasons and attracting only the most adventurous customers."

A journey in space-time: Specializing in retro-innovative locavore "real food" sourced locally and cycllically, Fäviken Magasinet is number 34 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2012 list.

This is “rektún mat och driikk” – real food and beverage, in the very local idiom. We’re far north, close to the Artic circle, and it’s difficult to imagine a setting more exotic than this: red wooden buildings framed by snowy mountains in mid-summer and buried in white from October onwards. The dining room has no more than fourteen seats, limited by the number of beds in the magnificent adjoining hotel, reminiscent of Vladimir Putin’s luxurious hunting datja, bear skins and all.

Dinner is served in the dining room upstairs. Granny’s baking tray, leaning against the wall, retains the antique yeast culture in its wood grain, which of course makes for unforgettably sumptuous sourdough bread. First off is the celebrated scallop: cooked over an open fire of juniper branches and birch coal, it is served on the shell, lying in its dense juices, to be eaten with the fingers and then slurped. A series of local delicacies follow, such as a steamed char from neighbouring Kallsjön, atop a salad of mushrooms, one of which is Matsutake, much coveted by the Japanese and picked in the surrounding forests.

Magnus Nilsson: "We do things as they have always been done at Jämtland’s mountain farms. We follow seasonal variations and existing traditions. We live with the community. During the summer and autumn, at the peak of each ingredient’s ripeness, we harvest what grows on our land and refine it using the methods that we have discovered from our rich traditions, or which we have found through our own search for quality."

Posted by Ghost of a flea at March 10, 2013 09:28 AM