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September 04, 2009

Think Romany Matrix and you'd be halfway there

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For Autumn/Winter 2009, Gareth Pugh decided to show a video rather than send models down the runway.

This collection, he said, was something of a 180-degree twist: turning that inverted triangle silhouette he has been working since Fashion East in 2005 (the self-same one everyone else seems to be cottoning onto) right-way up again. In place of leggings, we had billowing, aggressive gypsy skirts - think Romany Matrix and you'd be halfway there - and on top, body-cleaving stretch sweaters and anatomically shredded leather. Moving away from his earlier puffed-up and pumped-out abstraction, Pugh's latest collections seem to have a new affinity with the body and nature as a whole - soft, slipstream silk chiffons billowed, bubbled and melted across the screen like a sinister (but beautiful) Rorschach inkblot.
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For those who feel this has all got too haute luxe for the master of high concept, a series of simple separates studded with Hellraiser-style nails were a perfect example of the short, sharp shock treatments Pugh so loves.

More whimsy: Erin Fetherston Fall 2009: Gothic Alice in Wonderland, Rick Owens Fall 2009: A Goth Take on Swan Lake, Tory Burch Fall 2009: Ladylike Goth and Fall '09 makeup trends: Vamp chic meets 80s glam.

What the hell: Another look at Alexander McQueen Fall Winter 2009/2010.

Posted by Ghost of a flea at September 4, 2009 08:49 AM