Ghost of a flea

Television's "Naked Chef" is officially a saint already, of course. He took on the ghastly school-food industry with his School Dinners series last year, exposing the Turkey Twizzlers "menace" and shaming the Government into providing an extra £280 million towards the cost of pupils' meals.

Last Sunday he picked up two Bafta awards for his efforts. As a follow-up, his new restaurant in Cornwall doesn't seem at first to be a grand enough project to capitalise on the immense public goodwill Oliver enjoys, or to pack enough "kerpow". The restaurant's birth pangs are not even being televised.